Upland Peatlands - Photography challenges of moorland

Black Mount hills from Rannoch moor

Rannoch Moor is probably the most photographed upland peatland in the UK, its photographic appeal lies with the changeable weather and hill ranges that form a photogenic backdrop to an extensive tract of blanket bog broken up by bodies of water. Extensive suites of glacial landforms are mantled by blanket bog and the depth of underlying peat and degree of water logging has created a mosaic of vegetation, which has earmarked Rannoch moor for designation as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC). Conveniently it has a major A road that cuts across it for ease of access, it's a great pity that it's an 8 hour drive for me to get there. Nonetheless there are other moorlands and upland peatlands.

Typical moorland scenery of a featureless upland plateau 

Most of the factors that make Rannoch Moor so photogenic are sadly absent from many moorland plateaus. On plateaus the 'high' ground takes the form of long whale backs or shallow domes that provide negligible backdrop. Substantial water bodies are usually man made and glacial erratics are usually absent, leaving vegetation dominating the foreground, middle distance and beyond. The exposed nature makes any wind problematic with subject motion blur. The plateau 'flatness' requires low angled light to provide emphasis and definition to a landscape photograph and preferably some weather too. Taking into account the quality of lighting required to enliven rectangles of moorland and sky, I came to the conclusion some while ago that it's more rewarding to concentrate my photographic endeavours away from the flat moorland plateaus to moorlands that provide more topographic relief.

Rolling moorland

Rolling moorland has some welcome topographic relief to provide depth and a backdrop helps eliminate the land/sky rectangle.

Where foreground interest is confined to vegetation then the vegetation ideally needs to be in bloom or in autumnal colour.  Grasslands hugely benefit from snowfall.

It shouldn't come as a great surprise that panoramic moorlands lend themselves to a panoramic aspect ratios.

Water courses provide an alternative narrative and a welcome addition to moorland scenery.

In a future post I'll cover the challenges of photographing upland peatlands that fall outside the moorland category.

A trip to photograph an ancient weakness in the earths surface

My interest in the science of geology is its endeavour to unravel the history of the earth from rocks and structures, a complex story that requires the mind to grapple with the depth and enormity of geological time and processes. It is also personally rewarding to make a landscape photograph that conveys the geological story of a landscape.

From: Carney, J.N., Horak, J.M., Pharaoh, T.C., Gibbons, W., Wilson, D., Barclay, W.J., Bevins, R.E., Cope, J.C.W. & Ford, T.D., (2000), Precambrian Rocks of England and Wales, Geological Conservation Review Series, No. 20, Joint Nature Conservation Committee, 

At some point in the deep geological time of the Precambrian, the Cymru and Wrekin terranes collided and the collision zone (suture) or terrane boundary, has created an inherent weakness in the earths crust and a nucleation point for subsequent dislocations from external tectonic forces. Geological mapping has revealed that the Cymru/Wrekin terrane boundary has a long history of movement in the Precambrian, during the Caledonian Orogeny and then the Variscan Orogeny. These movements along the terrane boundary generate faults and folds (disturbances) in the overlying rocks and these features have been exploited by erosional processes, notably the actions of freeze-thaw weathering, flowing water and glacial ice. Which is a good thing, as the scenery of the Brecon Beacons National Park would be otherwise a lot photogenically poorer.

Faults of the Fforest Fawr Geopark
http://www.fforestfawrgeopark.org.uk/understanding/rocks-and-geology-of-the-geopark/faults-and-folds/geological-faults-in-the-geopark/

The head of the Senni valley has; a classic glaciated cirque; a U shaped profile; a miss fit water course of the Blaen Senni and the upper valley is aligned with the Tawe (Swansea) Valley/Cribarth disturbance. The valley orientation is initially NE before abruptly swinging north, which coincidentally aligns with another major structural trend which is termed Malvernoid. To the east of where the Senni valley swings north is the Cwm-du valley, a hanging valley above the floor of the Senni valley, with a suite of moraines and steep headwall of Graig Cwm-du. Cwm-du also has a mis fit stream and coincidentally the head waters of the Nant Cwm-du also parallel the Tawe Valley disturbance. This is an area I've visited on numerous occasions to try and make an image that I'm happy with.

There are a number of approaches to reach the vantage point on the Fan Frynych ridge over the Senni valley, the most scenic approach being through the Craig Cerrig Gleisiad National Nature Reserve and at this time of year, there is the potential for low angled sunlight on the northerly facing scarps and valley sides, with patches of heather in bloom for floral interest.

The weather forecast
Credit - Met Office

The forecast was optimistic considering the picture of the visible satellite, rainfall radar and wind strength readings from online weather station, nonetheless there was potential for some atmospheric lighting.

The scenic Craig Cerrig gleisiad
Foreground - vegetated antiscarps of the landslide and western headwall
Middle  - Craig cerrig-gleisiad
Horizon left - Cadair Arthur and shower cloud

Surveying the landscape to the south west from Fan Frynych's summit and it doesn't take much imagination to visualise a continuous plateau surface to Fan Llia, before erosion processes exploited  weaknesses in the bedrock and the dissection of the plateau. Sadly on this trip, as with previous trips the weather dictated the view of the Senni Valley would again remain unphotographed, this time the winds strength was problematic, maybe next time?

Undulating plateau dissected by Cwm-du

Cwm-du and the north facing scarp of Craig Cwm-du with layer cake stratigraphy of the Lower Old Red Devonian Senni beds

Instead a tactical retreat was made to a headwater stream of the Nant Cwm-du, with a view down into the Cwm-du and Senni valleys and 'relative' shelter from the wind. A patient wait for a break in the shower clouds, was spent donning and doffing rain wear and pondering plateau glaciation, cold based ice, periglacial processes, the thickness of soliflucted till, oh and the delights of descending through the landslide debris of Craig Cerrig Glesiad in head torch light ...

My patience was rewarded with a fortuitous break in the clouds. It wasn't the landscape image I had hoped for, but a satisfying one with the atmospheric lighting and a view along and down an ancient weakness in the earths crust revealed by erosion processes.

Snowdonia wild camp - A long overdue revisit

The long range weather forecast had hinted at a reasonable pattern of weather and the Mountain Weather Forecast also came into alignment a few days out and then finally resulted in something to implement a wild camp trip.

Credit www.mwis.org.uk

Credit www.mwis.org.uk

With sunset and sunrise azimuth to the NW and NE, the views of northern aspects of hills, scarps and cwms come into play,  moorland flora would be in flower and the wind would keep the no-see-ums at bay. Consulting the 'to visit list' and 'must revisit again in better weather list'  and the Cadair Idris massif made a compelling case, especially so with the visibility. My last wild camp trip here in 2010 had been disappointing and hopefully this time the weather would cooperate.

Parking up and my initial planned 'as the crow flies' route, was revised in view of the recent heavy rainfall turning streams into torrents and the bracken instead of being waist high was over head height. I must be getting older and wiser, as it seemed sensible to take a more circuitous and cautious ascent and hope the bog moorland wouldn't be too wet. However, recent heavy rainfall ensured that the moorland was thoroughly saturated, but not too 'tussocky' and I quietly congratulated myself on deciding to wear the Big Boots, as I needed the height in places to keep my feet dry.

Bog cotton and bog asphodel in their type environ

The cloud level was just above the summit tops and from bitter experience likely to lower during the evening/night, so ambitions of a high pitch were lowered to a base camp pitch with options to go high if the cloud stayed high.

A fine tent pitch next to a stream was chanced upon, the tent pitched, photo gear sorted and then off for a wander. Away from the madness of Snowdon, Glyderau and Carneddau, the rest of the Snowdonia National Park see's very little footfall or internet traffic, which is a good thing as there's still some potential for quiet contemplation of the scenery and originality of views. On this trip I saw precisely no one and enjoyed every moment of solitude, even the rain had the decency to drench every other visible summit and hold off until I was ensconced in the sleeping bag.

This area has some interesting geology to mull over - ignimbrites, debris flows, cleaved mudstones, intrusive magmas, extrusive magmas, pillow lavas, to name but a few that make up the bedrock, which is Ordovician in age and makes for a colourful geology map.

www.bgs.ac.uk 1:50K geology map screen grab for illustrative purposes

There were one or two outcrops that presented some food for thought, magma intruding into wet sediments, and subaqueous pyroclastic flows settling onto wet sediment produce a lot of steam, entrained vapour and degassing, which gives rise to some unusual looking geology. There's something unintuitive with the concept of pyroclastic ash flows travelling some distance underwater and yet still retaining enough heat (500+ deg C) to 'weld' on settling. Given the thickness of the silica rich tuff beds and their coverage on the geology map, these were large, violent explosive eruptions and on more than one occasion.

There are also a suite of glacial and periglacial landforms to interpret and fit together a plausible chronology of Devensian events and given the elevation above current sea level, an indication of the thickness of glacial ice that covered this area.

There were enough breaks in the cloud to let light play over the landscape and I had the wit to bring along a tele zoom this time, to take advantage of some distant views and also for some images of the flora. There was a noticeable reduction in the numbers of sheep since my last visit and certainly way less than in the Brecon Beacons National Park, which is a good thing, as there were signs of flora making a recovery with less grazing pressure. It was unexpected surprise to see a small number of heath/moorland spotted orchids dotted about and given a few more years of reduced grazing pressure their numbers should increase to quite a display.

A look out the tent at some unearthly hour in the pre dawn light, revealed the hills blanketed in fog and a blanket of high cloud.  So, no summit attempt, alarm reset and plenty of time to snooze up a plan.

The weather conditions were slightly improved at the next alarm call, I ventured forth, with a plan. Sunrise was a non event, though the sun did rise into a cloud break to let some light in.

I thought about a trip up onto the hills, but settled for exploring the base of the escarpment, before a leisurely decamp and descent back to the car.

A short and wet trip on the moor

The forecast was poor even by the standards of recent weather and yet a small glimmer of hope in the Met office forecast for the Brecon Beacons NP, with a possibility of some broken cloud later in the evening and more probably low cloud, hill fog, heavy showers, strong wind gusts that would provide some atmosphere. The wind direction pointed to high ground in the SE for offering any views and the potential for any burst of sunshine, with cloud breaking up over the Usk Valley. The Blorenge was promising, more so with its car park at 500m asl minimising any uphill slog and I could cope with the elements in lieu of ascent, for a wander around the moorland and take in the 'atmosphere'.

Parking up facing into the wind and the forecast was spot on - cloud base/hill fog was below the bonnet and the windscreen indicated heavy, angled, rain. Still if the cloud broke, after a passing rain band there could be an opportunity for a rainbow, so, on with the rain gear and off into the murk on a decent track across the moorland, then off piste onto sheep tracks for a look around.  Disappointing to note the heather was not in full bloom, but the bilberry leaves were taking on some colour, the berries were ripe and very tasty, a welcome distraction from the weather. A couple of hours wandering and waiting between showers and watching the cloud base rise and lift, but never convincingly clear the 600m level so only the flanks of the Black Mountains were visible and only the Sugar loaf summit occasionally visible.



The Usk Valley around Kemeys Commander has a suite of landforms associated with down wasting glacial ice and the views from the Blorenge provided an idea for an image and viewpoint of the landforms and time of year, one for the increasing list of 'must visit in the future'. On the way back to the car, finally the cloud broke briefly to let weak sunlight through and illuminate the moor, fortunate really as there was a combination of low level and a high cloud. A couple of images made at different angles of view and that was the end of the outing.

Winter light and colour

This post covers two excursions to the Brecon Beacons National Park and locations avoiding the high winds and gusts to gale force intensity, the sheltered lee side of scarps/hill sides.

The first trip was an afternoon excursion to the eastern flank of Y Mynydd Du, to coincide with the departure of a weather front and the relative shelter of the Old Red Sandstone escarpment. Anomalously high Autumn temperatures - well into winter and grass was still holding a green tinge of growth - and an absence of frosts, hadn't brought the rich palette of colour to the upland sedges and grasses, the cold spell over the festive season might have rectified this.  This area also encapsulates the headwaters of the Afon Tawe and the lake Llyn y Fan Fawr, it is fair to suggest there's no shortage of moisture and recent heavy rainfall had left the ground saturated with surface water streaming down the hill, streams in torrential flow and below ground the natural soil pipes were revealed with water flowing into normally dry gulleys.

The moorland also has a number of eroding peat hags, an increasing UK wide phenomena that is causing some debate as to the cause, in environmental and earth science circles

Eroding Peat hag

The erosion of preat hags does reveal a ground surface covered in rock debris, much of it angular in nature and probably a relict land surface from the the end of the last glacial stadial 11,500+ years BP when this area would have resembled arctic tundra.

Rock debris revealed by eroding Peat.

On the theme of controversy and Ice age landforms, Llyn y Fan Fawr has prompted some discussion of its origin, an active glacier is the popular consensus, there are alternative views though.

View to Llyn Y Fan Fawr and present outlet stream (not visible)

I can't find any references, but the moorland does seem to have a suite of landforms arraigned normal to the down valley glacier ice flow.

There's also a scatter of erratics, that might be from winnowed moraine or till and on the western flank of Fan Gyhirych a series of lineations that are discordant to the southerly dipping bedrock, these have been postulated as glacial lineations.

Fan Gyhirych glacial(?) lineations

With the wind easing, I ventured up onto the escarpment for a look around. On the way up, the path  exposed these mudstone, siltstone and sandstone beds, that nicely sum up the composition of the Brownstones formation.

Sandstone, siltone and mudstone beds, of the Old Red Devonian, Brownstones formation.

The wind was still on the strong side, so only Fan Hir was visited for a view over to Fforest Fawr and with ominous cloud rolling in from the west it was back to the car.

View from Fan Hir

On the way down, a stop to record the infant Afon Tawe flowing through soliflucted sheets of glacial till.

Infant Afon Tawe

The 2nd trip was an afternoon excursion too, the morning wasn't the best and the Mountain Weather Forecast hinted strongly that even with a weather front clearing, walking at elevated and exposed routes would be challenging, so keeping the tripod steady seemed optimistic for dusk, more interesting was the forecast of sunshine and snow showers.  The car parks for popular low level walks would be full, so the National Nature Reserve of Craig Cerrig Gleisiad and Fan Frynach, seemed the best bet for quiet and some views. The National Nature reserve has a lot to offer from a geomorphology and flora perspective, I'll hope to cover these aspects in future posts/visits, as the images on this trip were of the views. I'll add that the Mountain weather forecast was spot on.

Cadair Arthur

I've always known the peaks of Corn Du and Pen y Fan as Cadair Arthur, but this name seems to have fallen from favour in recent times. A pity, as viewed from the NE the twin summits do appear arm chair like, the connection with Arthur I have no idea, but there's a thread of Arthurian folklore in the Brecon Beacons NP.

Breaks in the cloud were few and the showers were light in intensity, the final image, just caught some light before the sun dropped below the hills.

The National Nature Reserve makes for an interesting outing with plenty to see and varied routes at high and low levels.