The Black Wood of Rannoch - October 2016

I had briefly visited the Black Wood of Rannoch, back in May and decided then, that it warranted a return visit(s). Events conspired to present an opportunity to further explore the woodland, during a weeks stay in Kinloch Rannoch, in late October with the potential for autumnal colour.

Surprisingly for a woodland, there is plenty of literature on the Black Wood of Rannoch and the surrounding area. Through documents, surveys and maps, woodland historians have pieced together a history of the wood, identifying major timber felling events and periods of regeneration. Archaeologists have recorded iron working sites, charcoal platforms, lime kilns, saw pits, saw mills and occupation sites, to provide an indication of the level of natural resource exploitation. Scientists have published papers and reports on numerous aspects of the ecology and species that inhabit the woodland. Judging by the number of old painted stakes, marker posts denoting transect lines and new orange spray painted stakes, the Black Wood is an area of ongoing scientific research and monitoring activities.

Granny Pines and regeneration, in the Black Wood

Geology, Glaciation, Climate and Soils

The geology underlying the Black Wood is predominantly Dalradian metasedimentary rocks, though away from streams, bedrock exposures are limited.  The area has been repeatedly inundated by glacial ice during the Quatenary, the last time during the Loch Lomond stadial. The littoral of Loch Rannoch provides evidence for the origin of glacial debris, as amongst the metasedimentary rocks of local origin, are pale speckled granite rocks that originate from the Moor of Rannoch granite pluton to the west of Loch Rannoch. Analysis of glacial landforms has allowed Geomorphologist to hypothesise that an Ice Cap ~1 Km thick, formed over Rannoch Moor during the Loch Lomond stadial, with outlet glaciers spreading out across the landscape. The study of glacial landforms has led some to hypothesise that there were areas of cold and warm based Ice and that the cold based Ice may have preserved relict landforms from previous episodes of glaciation.  When the climate ameliorated, the Loch Lomond stadial glaciers retreated and the Ice Cap down wasted, leaving behind an extensive assemblage of glacial till, morainic debris and glaciofluvial deposits, mantling the land.

Stream exposure of inclined bedrock and riparian woodland

The metamorphic bedrock underlying the woodland is relatively impermeable and rainfall drains through the superficial deposits and soil layers. The Loch Rannoch area receives a mean annual rainfall of ~1.5 metres and higher amounts over adjacent elevated ground. Away from forestry tracks and wandering along animal track ways that contour the slopes, there are a surprising number of spring lines and flushes encountered.

Flush mosses 

The nature and topography of the woodland floor has generated a range of soils: mainly podzols, gleys and peats. The diverse nature of the ground topography and soils has created a mosaic of micro-habitats within the Black Wood of Rannoch, exploited by flora to produce vegetation communities in ground and field layers of: mosses, rushes, sedges, grasses, herbs, shrubs and bracken.

Woodland history

The general consensus amongst woodland historians is that once upon a time the Black Wood extended further west, east and south. The combination of over grazing and unsustainable tree felling, reduced the wood to a core area, with Gaelic place names, Old maps, remnant Scots Pines, hinting at the former extent of the wood. Matters could be far worse, if it wasn't for enlightened individuals in times past, initiating programs of woodland regeneration, but on the whole it has been a case of gradual decline. From 1947 the Black Wood, has been managed by the Forestry Commission and what exists today reflects the good and not so good aspects of the Forestry Commissions management of the woodland, that they in turn took ownership of. Conservation areas, regeneration and expansion of the Caledonian Forest are the good aspects and Management plans are in place to underpin a number of objectives and ambitions.

Scots Pines and Birch

The not so good aspects of the FC's management are being revisited, non native trees removed and native trees of local provenance planted. A significant area of the Black Wood has also been designated as a Special Area of Conservation and Site of Special Scientific Interest, legally protected and specific management plans cover these areas.


Granny Pines

Granny Pine and Birch

The Granny Pines define the special nature of the Caledonian Forest, their size and morphology, adding presence and a visual indicator of a woods age. The Granny Pines in the Black Wood have been dated by dendrochronology to the late 17th C. To my eyes, some of the Granny Pines have a form akin to pollarded Oaks, with large spreading crowns and as with Oak woodlands there is also Wood Sorrel growing beneath then amongst the needle litter. The survival of Granny Pines has been attributed to their unsuitability for timber.

Woodland floor under a Granny Pine

Hummocks

Anyone wandering 'off piste' in native Pinewoods will encounter 'hummocks' and the Black Wood of Rannoch is no exception, with 'Hummocks' covered in bilberry and heather, sometimes with a Scots Pine or Birch tree growing on them. Some hummocks are of a substantial size, others are in an embryonic state, with a blaeberry/moss cushion colonising a pine stump.

Hummock forming on pine stump

As far as I could tell, the majority of 'hummocks' in the Black Wood, do not appear to be erratic boulders blanketed in vegetation and instead are most likely formed from relict pine tree stumps, although a case could be made for wood ants nests also making a contribution. Conventional wisdom suggests the formation of a 'hummock' takes some time and they are a feature of Caledonian Pine woods with a long history of continuous woodland cover.

Hummocks

Bones of the Forest and windthrow

Foresters indoctrinated in 'modern' forestry at the old Forest schools, would no doubt be aghast at the scruffy nature of the Black Wood, there are a visible number of snags and fallen deadwood in the conservation areas within the Black Wood. The snags and windblow are a positive development for biodiversity and the organisms who are dependent on deadwood for habitat. Standing deadwood is a particularly important resource as the decay rate is slower than fallen material on the ground. The slower decay rate in standing deadwood is exploited by different organisms, to those that breakdown fallen wood on the ground, which in turn means increased biodiversity.

The deciduous woodland

A feature of the Black Wood is the prevalence of Birch, Rowan and Willow trees, that add diversity and a welcome splash of autumnal colour. Whilst Birch dominate some woodland areas, it seems that the Rowan trees are good indicators of the grazing level, in one enclosure where deer have been excluded for some while, it is now dominated by Rowan, in stark contrast to the numbers of Rowan trees in the wider woodland. Having typed that there are numbers of Rowan seedlings on the ground under trees where birds have roosted and this might indicate a further reduction in grazing animals/pressure. With very little imagination, it is easy to extrapolate how Highlands woods and the wider landscape might appear with a reduction in grazing of herbivores, to conservation levels.

During the visits, significant numbers of Fieldfares were seen feeding on Rowan berries and blaeberries, plants that rely on avian dispersal and the reason why Rowan saplings, Blaeberry and Cowberry. can be seen growing as epiphytes on Granny Pines.

Fungi

I had anticipated some native Pine woodland specialists and was not disappointed.

Scaly Tooth fungus (Sarcodon squamosus)

Gypsy mushroom (Cortinarius caperatus) and Ostrich-plume Feather-moss (Ptilium crista-castrensis)

Fly agaric (Amanita muscaria)

Unidentified solitary Amanita fungus and Five-ranked Bog-moss (Sphagnum quinquefarium)

I thoroughly enjoyed my visits to the Black Wood of Rannoch, although only exploring a small fraction of its extent, there was still plenty of subject matter to photograph, much to ponder and the unique atmosphere of a native Pinewood in autumn to savour. Definitely a place to return to again.

Trip report part 5 - Final day

Regeneration of native Pinewood in Abernethy Forest

The last excursion of the holiday was to an area of Abernethy forest that I had reconnoitred earlier in the week, the attraction was the area of old growth native pine woodland. I would have liked rain and no wind, instead it was bright, dry, overcast and breezy, oh and midges were conspicuous.

Lichens

Field layer ~ Blaeberry, Cranberry, Juniper and Ling 

Bracken in the field layer

An unusual Elfin Saddle mushroom was also chanced upon.

The highlight of the day was finally catching sight of a Golden Eagle gliding above Abernethy forest on the walk back to the car.

It had been an interesting holiday, instead of cetaceans, puffins and other marine life, Nic saw an impressive selection of the World's rare and endangered terrestrial mammals at the Highland Wildlife Park and from the talks learnt more about the conservation issues. Pine martens and Badgers were viewed at dusk from a hide. An Osprey over Loch Insh and a Golden Eagle on the last day were memorable too and I enjoyed seeing Ptarmigan and Mountain Hares, in close proximity on the Cairngorms. It was also good to revisit the Black Wood of Rannoch. The excursions identified some promising locations for a future autumn visit and an extended wild camping trip maybe in late summer. A good trip all things considered.

Trip report part 3 - Abernethy and Rothiemurchus woodlands

Nic declareed she would visit the Highland Wildlife Park, which she did and thoroughly enjoyed it too, with informative lectures and some unusual fauna: the Snow Leopard and Amur Tiger were noteworthy. Captive wild animals, however well intentioned the reasons, I am not a fan of, so I dropped Nic off and visited Abernethy forest for a reconnaissance of its potential, as sadly the wind and weather were not the best for woodland photography.

Scots Pine plantation, natural regeneration and lichen heath, Abernethy Forest

Woodland floor, Abernethy Forest

I learnt that Abernethy Forest is growing on an extensive suite of glacial deposits and landforms, has extensive areas of Scots Pine plantations of varying ages and smaller areas of older growth woodland. There is evidence of natural woodland regeneration and areas of old growth native pinewoods have a highly visible lichen and bryophyte communities, the plantations not so much.

Harsh lighting and Granny pines, Abernethy Forest

One area in particular stood out for holding some photographic promise and was worth returning to. It was soon time to head back to pick Nic up from the Wildlife Park, grab some dinner and out again for an evening trip to Rothiemurchus Forest.

Regeneration in Rothiemurchus Forest

The plan was an evening circular walk taking in Loch an Eilein, Am  Beanaidh and the views from Whitewell. A navigational faux paux on my part meant we missed the path for Loch an Eiliein, sigh, the walk was extended along the Am Beanaidh to compensate.

Am Beanaidh

We stopped to have a chat with a backpacker, who turned out to be Nigel Schofield, Chairman of the Long Distance Walkers Association. He was on his way to Aviemore and had started walking from South Wales, 8 weeks previously, on a 950+ mile quest to reach the remotest hill summits in Wales, England and Scotland. A remarkable individual and an interesting life story, if he ever publishes a book on his exploits, I'll be sure to order it.

Rothiemurchus Forest

This area of the Rothiemurchus Forest, had much to commend: views to the Cairngorm hills, native pinewoods, bog woodland, moorland, stillwater, dynamic water courses and an interesting suite of glacial landforms. Inclement weather would provide great photographic potential for some sections of watercourses draining the hills, with rain bringing out the colours.

Bog woodland, Rothiemurchus Forest

Towards sunset, cloud increased and lowered, photography ended with a view to Lairig Ghru from Whitewell. A good walk, for the varied scenery, native woodland and habitats.

The next day was an iffy forecast for the hills and trips were made to Loch an Eilein, the RSPB nature reserve at Insh Marshes and an evening visit back to photograph large woody debris in Am Beanaidh and a silver birch wood in Rothiemurchus Forest. On the way to Loch an Eiein, we stopped off for look at Loch Insh from the North Shore and upon walking out from under a railway bridge were confronted with a close up view of an Osprey! No images, but we watched it for a while as it quartered the loch into a headwind before it disappeared from view to the east. Loch an Eilein is a popular visitor attraction and once again confirmed my belief that popularity has more to do with marketing, proximity of car parking, facilities and ease of access.

It was depressing to witness at Loch an Eilein the number of dog's unleashed by their owners, despite notices asking visitors to keep their dogs under control, I would estimate responsible dog walkers were in a minority of ~25%. Interestingly we had seen plenty of Lapwings, up in the wilds of Sutherland and Nic had seen Lapwings at the Highland Wildlife Park, where dogs are not permitted outside of owners cars. Anywhere dog walkers were prevalent and we didn't see any Lapwings.

The RSPB Nature Reserve at Insh Marshes was an interesting visit, sadly the Aspen stands were not in leaf, but an interesting walk nonetheless.

River Tromie ~ RSPB Insh Marshes Nature Reserve

In the evening I revisited the Rothiemurchus forest, where we had walked the evening before, as there were a couple of areas we had walked past the night before, that hadn't been photographed as we were endeavouring to reach the car without the assistance of head torches.

The attrition of storms and floods on riparian trees

Birch and Juniper ~ Rothiemurchus Forest

On arriving back, the Mountain Weather Forecast for the next day was about as good as it gets for hill walking and thoughts turned to a trip up onto the Cairngorms plateau.

Trip report Part 2 - The Cairngorms National Park

On the drive down the A897 through Sutherland, we took in the impressive views along Strath Halladale, the flow country around Forsinard, the Strath of Kildonan, before picking up the A9. Potential itineraries were  discussed for the Cairngorms National Park. Some years ago I purchased The Nature of the Cairngorms that outlines why the area is so important for conservation and anyone visiting the Cairngorms would be wise to purchase this book. Also the Native Pinewoods of Scotland by Stevens and Carlisle would have been a helpful resource. Sadly the books and Ordnance Survey maps were languishing back home.

Cairngorms National Park 

A stop in Braemar to pick up two Ordnance Survey maps, before reaching the accommodation at Kingussie. The accommodation was perfect and a warm welcome from the owners. Things were looking up.

Bog Woodland ~ Invereshie and Inshriach NNR

After unpacking, a quick look at the OS map and an excursion to Invereshie and Inshriach National Nature Reserve, to establish the progress of spring greening and flora in flower. Parking up at the first car park and the rain set in, sigh. I should have checked a satellite view as it would have saved an extended trip through the plantations, the areas of Bog woodland are the reason for extending the NNR boundary and some regeneration of Scots pines are evident. The remnants of a native pinewood that had eluded the attentions of Canadian foresters in World War One and the modern Forestry Commission since, was discernible on the steep hillsides and the rest were plantations of Scots Pines of varying ages, Back at the car, the rain stopped and a drive up Glen Feshie to recce the terrain, forestry designated carparks No's 2 or 3 would have been better options for a walk and then it was time to head back to base at dusk. A plus point was the seeming absence of the dreaded midge, not so good was the lateness of spring in the Cairngorms -  blaeberry, bog cotton, wood sorrel and wood anemone were in flower and that was it, hopes of Twin Flower being in flower were dashed.

An Lochan Uaine

Back at base the internet was consulted, specifically ecology websites for areas of old growth stands of Scots Pines and satellite imagery to eliminate the plantations from future trips. I needed to impress Nic with a walk that would show the best of the Cairngorms and a popular walk in Glenmore forest to Ryvoan pass via An Lochan Uaine, should be the ticket. It was and a delight to follow the Abhainn Ruigh-eunachan upstream before connecting to the track leading to An Lochan Uaine. There were a few Scots Pines that were of a size and appearance, suggesting they were veteran trees.

Wood Sorrel and Veteran Scots Pine ~ Glenmore Forest

Some while was spent at the lochside enjoying the view, noting the relict and active talus/scree slope on the south side and discussing why green water is so aesthetically pleasing, whilst muddy water isn't so. The clarity of water provided a view of the waterlogged tree trunks resting on the loch floor that disappeared in the green loch water, nature giving a surreal take on an underwater wood. The walk continued on through Ryvoan Pass into the Abernethy National Nature Reserve, where we opted to follow the Braemar track into the moorland until a suitable vantage point was reached and the views taken in. It was also apparent that the management of grazing animals had enabled regeneration of native woodland with a mixture of young trees and saplings visible. No sign though of a Golden Eagle, which was surprising given the expansive views in clear air over the quieter areas of the Abernethy NNR. The area appears to be dominated by landforms created by the downwasting and retreat of glacial ice, meltwater and solifluction sheets/lobes at higher elevations. The size of some water bodies points to large masses of ice calved from a retreating glacier. The excursion demonstrated that of the broad leaved trees only Birch and Rowan were in leaf flush, unknown species of Willows were not, which simplified matters for the next few days photography.

Abernethy NNR

Despite clouds threatening more rain and breaks for sunlight to play over the Pines and moorland, the lighting was too harsh and the moorland colours some way from their best, with better light and the heather in bloom there would be some potential for a compelling landscape photograph. An interesting excursion though and some thought provoking points to mull over.

Invereshie and Inshriach NNR

Nic declined a possible successive rain dominated evening excursion and instead declared she would be researching guided wildlife safaris and what the nearby Royal Zoological Society of Scotland Highland Wildlife Park had to offer. Given the the probabilities of showers breaking out, good air clarity courtesy of a northerly air flow and the chance of atmospheric lighting: I thought it worthwhile to head out again. The aspect, contour lines and sunset azimuth, pointed to the native pinewoods on the hillsides of the Invereshie and Inshriach NNR, as the evenings destination.

Invereshie and Inshriach NNR

The excursion was a good one with light winds, good visibility and bursts of sunlight through breaking rain/shower clouds.

Krummholz zone

It is apparent that deer numbers at Inshriach forest are managed at levels commensurate for the conservation and regeneration of native woodland, evidenced from the saplings of Rowan, Scots Pine and Birch that were growing amongst the existing tree line and past it further on up the hillside. There is also an interesting effect on the Scots Pine as height is gained and trees become more exposed to the prevailing winds and climate, the trees start to take on Krummholz forms and morphologies.

Even a half hearted rainbow put in an appearance.

Since I had schlepped a telephoto lens about it seemed a shame not to use its field of view to isolate some of the pinewood catching the very last of the light before the sun was masked by an ominous looking cloud bank that stretched across the visible NW horizon. With dusk approaching and no further sign of cloud breaking it was time to end the trip and walk down. Thoughts turned to the Cairngorm massif and a trip up to the plateau.

Trip report Part I - A change of plan from the Far North to the Cairngorms NP

A cottage was booked back in January for a week at the end of May in the North West of Sutherland, plans had been made for walks, views, wildlife, flora, geology etc.

Black Wood of Rannoch 

The trip started well with a stopover on the Friday at Kinloch Rannoch, with a dusk and dawn visit made to The Black Wood. The hotel porter seemed bemused to see someone heading out for a walk in the rain at dawn. The Black Wood is a remnant of the Caledonian Forest, a Natura 200) site, Special Area of Conservation, Site of Special Scientific Interest and managed by Scotland's Forestry Commission. I last visited it in 2008 and well overdue a return visit.

Field layer diversity in the Black Wood of Rannoch

The blaeberry was flowering in the wood field layer and despite the rain, bumble bees were out gathering nectar and pollinating the blaeberry.

Blaeberry flowers

Bog Beacons were conspicuous in the wetter places of the wood.

Bog Beacons

The attrition of storms on the wood was evident with wind thrown branches littering the woodland floor.

Wind throw

Some parts of the wood had an interesting dynamic of Scots Pine and Birch trees.

Mosaic of Scots Pines and Birch woodland

My visits have only scratched the potential of the Black Wood and a note has been made for a more extended visit in the future.

The trip up the A9 and onto the single track roads through Sutherland passed soon enough and we reached the holiday cottage on schedule. It was a warm and sunny afternoon, opening the door to the accommodation revealed a cold and damp interior. A dead bumblebee on the duvet, a dying beetle on the floor and other assorted dead invertebrates added to the unwelcoming atmosphere. A further surprise was an information notice over the kitchen sink that stated the tap water wasn't fit for drinking and instead bottled water was supplied instead, sadly there were no bottles of drinking water anywhere. Further disappointment was an inspection of two cups for a restorative not beverage suggested that hygiene standards had slipped too. Oh, and the hot water was courtesy of a wood burning stove, which meant lighting and stoking a fire to ensure hot water: you really do need to to actually experience this to appreciate the convenience of gas/oil/electric boilers. This may sound like first world problem territory, but the prospect of spending a weeks holiday in this most unwelcoming of accommodation was beyond the pale. We decided we would bail out and find alternative accommodation. Sadly, the internet wasn't accessible and it seemed from the cottage instruction book that guests needed to call a number and sort any access problems themselves.

Fortuitously, the owner then turned up and after introductions, I expressed some forthright opinions. He blamed an error on the cleaning roster of the estate for the the state of the accommodation, confirmed he had never personally stayed in the accommodation and appeared to have some difficulty in accepting that opening an email from his phone outside on the mobile phone network was not the same as internet access. He offered to fully refund the £460 booking fee and also offered to let us stay overnight whilst we sorted out alternative accommodation. Without hesitation we accepted the offer of a refund, declined the second gesture and left, to find internet access. It was hugely disappointing as the location was superb, but we were also hugely relieved having dodged a bullet.

With one exception, all previous visits to Scotland had been to accommodation owned by Scottish residents and these have been exemplary. Our one and only previous poor experience of holiday accommodation in Scotland, was also courtesy of a sporting estate owned by English gentry. So if nothing else, sporting estates have some consistency in providing underwhelming accommodation in our limited experience.

Rose Root, Strathy point, Sutherland

The Tongue Hotel had no room availability, but the bar area had wifi and over coffee the quest for accommodation began. We established the following :

• A lot of accommodation had been already been booked on a long term basis by contractors for renewable energy developments.
• Durness was the focus of a week long running festival, The Cape Wrath Challenge and that had seen accommodation booked far and wide.
•  Coast 500 visitors, and other tourists to the area meant overnight accommodation in the local area was at a premium.  

A patron in the bar kindly helped by suggesting we drive along the coast road to Thurso and check out the BB's / guesthouses for vacancies, this seemed the best and a room was available at The Sheiling, Melvich, the owner, room, facilities and home cooked breakfast were all superb. We had dinner at the Strathy Inn - very good - and managed a couple of hours at Strathy point: taking in the views, looking for cetaceans and photographing the flora. Next morning we contacted Sykes Cottages, a company we had booked accommodation with before and were able to talk to a representative. There was no accommodation available in the NW Highlands, widening the search to wider Highland area and a rental property in Kingussie was available, we booked it and headed south.

Scottish Primrose, Strathy Point, Sutherland