Trip report Part 2 - The Cairngorms National Park

On the drive down the A897 through Sutherland, we took in the impressive views along Strath Halladale, the flow country around Forsinard, the Strath of Kildonan, before picking up the A9. Potential itineraries were  discussed for the Cairngorms National Park. Some years ago I purchased The Nature of the Cairngorms that outlines why the area is so important for conservation and anyone visiting the Cairngorms would be wise to purchase this book. Also the Native Pinewoods of Scotland by Stevens and Carlisle would have been a helpful resource. Sadly the books and Ordnance Survey maps were languishing back home.

Cairngorms National Park 

A stop in Braemar to pick up two Ordnance Survey maps, before reaching the accommodation at Kingussie. The accommodation was perfect and a warm welcome from the owners. Things were looking up.

Bog Woodland ~ Invereshie and Inshriach NNR

After unpacking, a quick look at the OS map and an excursion to Invereshie and Inshriach National Nature Reserve, to establish the progress of spring greening and flora in flower. Parking up at the first car park and the rain set in, sigh. I should have checked a satellite view as it would have saved an extended trip through the plantations, the areas of Bog woodland are the reason for extending the NNR boundary and some regeneration of Scots pines are evident. The remnants of a native pinewood that had eluded the attentions of Canadian foresters in World War One and the modern Forestry Commission since, was discernible on the steep hillsides and the rest were plantations of Scots Pines of varying ages, Back at the car, the rain stopped and a drive up Glen Feshie to recce the terrain, forestry designated carparks No's 2 or 3 would have been better options for a walk and then it was time to head back to base at dusk. A plus point was the seeming absence of the dreaded midge, not so good was the lateness of spring in the Cairngorms -  blaeberry, bog cotton, wood sorrel and wood anemone were in flower and that was it, hopes of Twin Flower being in flower were dashed.

An Lochan Uaine

Back at base the internet was consulted, specifically ecology websites for areas of old growth stands of Scots Pines and satellite imagery to eliminate the plantations from future trips. I needed to impress Nic with a walk that would show the best of the Cairngorms and a popular walk in Glenmore forest to Ryvoan pass via An Lochan Uaine, should be the ticket. It was and a delight to follow the Abhainn Ruigh-eunachan upstream before connecting to the track leading to An Lochan Uaine. There were a few Scots Pines that were of a size and appearance, suggesting they were veteran trees.

Wood Sorrel and Veteran Scots Pine ~ Glenmore Forest

Some while was spent at the lochside enjoying the view, noting the relict and active talus/scree slope on the south side and discussing why green water is so aesthetically pleasing, whilst muddy water isn't so. The clarity of water provided a view of the waterlogged tree trunks resting on the loch floor that disappeared in the green loch water, nature giving a surreal take on an underwater wood. The walk continued on through Ryvoan Pass into the Abernethy National Nature Reserve, where we opted to follow the Braemar track into the moorland until a suitable vantage point was reached and the views taken in. It was also apparent that the management of grazing animals had enabled regeneration of native woodland with a mixture of young trees and saplings visible. No sign though of a Golden Eagle, which was surprising given the expansive views in clear air over the quieter areas of the Abernethy NNR. The area appears to be dominated by landforms created by the downwasting and retreat of glacial ice, meltwater and solifluction sheets/lobes at higher elevations. The size of some water bodies points to large masses of ice calved from a retreating glacier. The excursion demonstrated that of the broad leaved trees only Birch and Rowan were in leaf flush, unknown species of Willows were not, which simplified matters for the next few days photography.

Abernethy NNR

Despite clouds threatening more rain and breaks for sunlight to play over the Pines and moorland, the lighting was too harsh and the moorland colours some way from their best, with better light and the heather in bloom there would be some potential for a compelling landscape photograph. An interesting excursion though and some thought provoking points to mull over.

Invereshie and Inshriach NNR

Nic declined a possible successive rain dominated evening excursion and instead declared she would be researching guided wildlife safaris and what the nearby Royal Zoological Society of Scotland Highland Wildlife Park had to offer. Given the the probabilities of showers breaking out, good air clarity courtesy of a northerly air flow and the chance of atmospheric lighting: I thought it worthwhile to head out again. The aspect, contour lines and sunset azimuth, pointed to the native pinewoods on the hillsides of the Invereshie and Inshriach NNR, as the evenings destination.

Invereshie and Inshriach NNR

The excursion was a good one with light winds, good visibility and bursts of sunlight through breaking rain/shower clouds.

Krummholz zone

It is apparent that deer numbers at Inshriach forest are managed at levels commensurate for the conservation and regeneration of native woodland, evidenced from the saplings of Rowan, Scots Pine and Birch that were growing amongst the existing tree line and past it further on up the hillside. There is also an interesting effect on the Scots Pine as height is gained and trees become more exposed to the prevailing winds and climate, the trees start to take on Krummholz forms and morphologies.

Even a half hearted rainbow put in an appearance.

Since I had schlepped a telephoto lens about it seemed a shame not to use its field of view to isolate some of the pinewood catching the very last of the light before the sun was masked by an ominous looking cloud bank that stretched across the visible NW horizon. With dusk approaching and no further sign of cloud breaking it was time to end the trip and walk down. Thoughts turned to the Cairngorm massif and a trip up to the plateau.