An autumn narrative

A forecast of rain clearing with some brief intermittent sunshine and low winds before a more extensive weather front arrived presented the opportunity for a quick outing to simply capture autumnal colour in the woodland of the Forest of Dean. Wetted trunks of beech trees and leaves with contre jour lighting would be just the ticket. So a 10 min car journey, 10 minute walk from the car, set up, wait a few minutes for a break in the cloud and hey presto.

Mother trees and forests

If you have a spare 20 mins it is worth watching Professor Suzanne Simard providing insight into the layers of complexity in forests.

"This fascinating talk presents the scientific research that shows the interconnectedness of life in the forest ecosystem. It takes us beneath the forest floor where we learn how trees are communicating and exchanging resources. Going beyond the simple view of a forest as a resource to be exploited, it presents the forest as a complex network of life. Her examination of the relationships that make up the complexity of nature present compelling support for the idea that “We are all one” Suzanne Simard studies the surprising and delicate complexity in nature. Her main focus is on the below-ground fungal networks that connect trees and facilitate underground inter-tree communication and interaction. Her team's analysis revealed that the fungi networks move water, carbon and nutrients such as nitrogen between and among trees as well as across species. The research has demonstrated that these complex, symbiotic networks in our forests -- at the hub of which stand what she calls the "mother trees" -- mimic our own neural and social networks. This groundbreaking work on symbiotic plant communication has far-reaching implications in both the forestry and agricultural industries, in particular concerning sustainable stewardship of forests and the plant’s resistance to pathogens. She works primarily in forests, but also grasslands, wetlands, tundra and alpine ecosystems." 

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"The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry"

Overnight accommodation was booked to enable two days of photography in the environs of the upper Tywi catchment in the Cambrian Mountains. On the journey there plenty of stunning autumnal colour was passed until entering the Twyi valley, where irrespective of the woodland facing aspect or elevation the majority of oak trees were bare of leaves. Hopes of images capturing valleys mantled with autumnal oak canopies juxtaposed against open moorland were shelved for another year. C'est la vie.

The first day was leaden skies. negligible wind and 'damp' so photography ambitions were instead lowered to riparian woodland and the morphology of oak trees contorted by past events and the necessity for leaves to access sunlight. Considering the morphology and growing habitat some of the trees must be of some age.

High annual rainfall, high humidity, relatively low levels of atmospheric pollution and ancient woodland creates an ideal habitat for epiphytic bryophyte and lichens, so the opportunity was taken to photograph some of the more accessible communities.

Barnacle lichen (Thelotrema lepadinum) and Tamarisk Scalewort (Frullania tamarisci)

Crottle (Parmelia saxatilis)

The sunset vigil was spent above the tree line and hopes of a sunset were briefly raised by breaking cloud on the western horizon and then dashed as the breaks closed. Nevertheless the time spent waiting allowed an appreciation of the surrounding plateau surfaces dissected by valleys and exposed bedrock indicated folding on the northern flank of the Tywi Lineament.

The following day saw the wind increase and the weather forecast predicted cloud would briefly break up before closing, a circuitous walk through the woods and up onto the plateau was opted for. The plateau surfaces posed their usual photography challenge: a distinct lack of inspiration, so photography efforts were concentrated down on the plateau slope edge where woodland was naturally regenerating.

The cloud did eventually break up allowing fleeting patches of sunlight to play over the landscape, frustratingly though never the foreground and middle ground simultaneously during a tactical 'rest stop'. Back down in the valley and a viewpoint was chanced upon that I thought held some potential and then discovered the sun didn't quite clear the ridge, sigh.

With incoming cloud negating sunset, there ended the photography and yet another location to put on the list of places to return to one day.

Reflected and diffuse autumn light

Heavily shaded woodland environments benefit hugely from the illumination of an autumnal canopy that imparts 'warm' light and if a mist is rising then the light is diffused. The combination creates some very special lighting and is generally utilised for photographs of sun beams penetrating through breaks in the tree canopy.

A recent trip to a Scowles woodland was rewarded with the conditions and atmosphere for reflected and diffused lighting, that made venturing forth down into the darker realms a realistic photographic ambition. The lower perspective offers views of outsize tree roots flowing down over bedrock outcrops to form buttresses and the underside of gnarled veteran beech coppice stools with rot hollows that provide insight to their great age. The dense shade and higher humidity also creates the habitat for luxuriant mosses and bryophytes and for my aesthetic tastes the emerald greens contrasts well with the freshly fallen autumnal beech leaves. Whilst sun beams breaking through a canopy provide visual drama, it is well worth bearing in mind that the very same atmospheric conditions can be utilised to photograph more challenging subject matter.

What happens when a managed woodland is left unmanaged since 1944?

Well for a start a very readable book has been published "‪Woodland Development‬: ‪A Long Term Study of Lady Park Wood‬".  From the summary on the back cover of the book:

In 1944 Lady Park Wood (45 hectares of woodland in Gloucestershire and Monmouthshire, UK) was set aside indefinitely by the Forestry Commission so that ecologists could study how woodland develops naturally. Since then, in a unique long-term study, individual trees and shrubs have been recorded at intervals, accumulating a detailed record of more than 20,000 individual beech, sessile oak, ash, wych elm, small-leaved lime, large-leaved lime, birch, hazel, yew and other species.

In the seven decades since the study started, the wood has changed; trees grew, died and regenerated, and drought, disease and other events shaped its destiny. Each tree and shrub species reacted in its own way to changes in the wood as a whole and to changes in the fortunes of its neighbours. Meanwhile, the wild fauna, flora and fungi also responded, leaving the wood richer in some groups but poorer in others.

In this landmark book, beautifully illustrated throughout, George Peterken and Edward Mountford, summarise the ongoing results of the Lady Park Wood study, highlighting its unique place in nature conservation and its significance to ecology in general. It also builds on experience at Lady Park Wood and elsewhere to discuss in particular: the role and maintenance of long-term ecological studies; the concept and form of natural woodland; the role of minimum-intervention policies in woodland nature conservation; near-to-nature forestry; and the desirability and practicalities of re-wilding woodlands. 

There are also historical insights, the rationale for a long term study, case studies, how the accumulated field data has been used in published research, politics and many interesting anecdotes. I can recommend it for anybody curious on the dynamic environment of woodland.

Lady Park Wood outwith the exclosure fence

An autumnal small leaved lime and upland oak wood

A weather forecast for the Brecon Beacons National Park stated fog/mist/low cloud, light rain and negligible wind, so it was with high hopes that I set off for Coed y Rhaiadr, there was fog, negligible wind and light drizzle all the way there until I dropped down to Hirwaun. Where there was no fog, mist or rain and the rotating blades of wind farm turbines indicated wind too. Still there are plenty of options in Coed y Rhaiadr with autumnal colour and I headed for an area of woodland high up the ravine slopes with photogenic veteran oaks. Passing the waterfalls the area is noted for indicated the the tree canopy that provide a backdrop had been stripped of leaves from the recent passage of Storm Ophelia. The oaks I had hoped to photograph were also denuded of leaves, so it was back down to the river.

The numerous waterfalls make it a magnet for photography workshops in the autumn and it hadn't taken long for the workshop providers and punters to stake out their claims. I didn't see anyone photographing the woodland sans waterfalls, which is a pity as the woodland is designated as a Special Area of Conservation. A riparian small leaved lime in autumnal colour provided the necessary inspiration and a native woodland tree that I've rarely found a) in autumn colour and b) suitably sited to make a photograph. From the chosen viewpoint the rain serendipitously broke up the river surface, mitigating the sky reflection. Whilst waiting for the wind to ease I watched a Dipper working its way downstream, diving and feeding from the riverbed. The wind eventually died down to make a photograph and the only audible sound was rain falling and dripping down through the canopy.

Another storm was forecast in a few days time so I made the decision to maximise my photography opportunities and cut short my excursion in Coed y Rhaiadr to visit a nearby upland wood that should have been relatively sheltered from the Storm Ophelia's winds. Some parts of the wood have a closed canopy whilst other parts are more open in nature and mature sessile oaks are spread along a steep sided valley, with crowns and branches shaped by the elements. A few oaks have layered their branches which are mantled with epiphytic lichens and well within tripod height.

Birch, alder, willow, holly, hazel, hawthorn, ash and rowan trees make up the rest of the woodland trees and with more time I would have photographed these, but the oaks were concentrated on for this visit. I do not know anything of the woodlands history, many of the oaks are pollarded and the hazel trees are coppice stools, hinting at a past management regime. The wood is not officially designated as ancient woodland, but is depicted on first edition 19th Century Ordnance Survey maps and some of the oaks appear to be of some age. The lack of regeneration indicates the woodland is overgrazed and has been so for many years.

Eventually the wind and driving rain brought an end to the excursion and a note made to revisit again in the future.

Early autumn in a Scowles woodland.

Autumnal colour in woodlands is a personal highlight in the landscape photography calendar and it usually heralds an invigorated jet stream lining up vigorous weather systems at the UK, sigh. So it was with some relief that a calm weather forecast coincided with beech leaves starting to change colour and a trip was made to a scowles woodland in the Forest of Dean. The woodland canopy is dominated by beech with yew dominating the understorey and occasional ash, holly, hazel, wych elm, whitebeam and lime. Beech trees in the ancient woodlands I am familiar with, rarely synchronise their autumnal colour. Instead it's a gradual roll out with a spectrum of hues from green to fiery orange/red and corresponding leaf fall punctuated by heavy falls in stormy weather. The colour hues shifting from greens to full autumn colour as the days shorten and nights lengthen.

On this visit there was enough early leaf fall to enliven the floor and enough leaves remaining to maintain a closed canopy and include some of the tree crowns in a composition. Some light rainfall had wetted surfaces to saturate colours and overhead cloud provided diffuse lighting. More importantly there was almost negligible wind as the composition hinges upon the lack of movement during a long exposure.  Suffice to type that I was satisfied with the photographic reward.