A trip to a daffodil wood

The county flower of Gloucestershire is the wild daffodil and its stronghold is in the north-west of the county where it borders Herefordshire, in an area called the Golden Triangle.  There are fields, meadows, churchyards, orchards and woodland that are carpeted in wild daffodils, some of the best displays are in Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust nature reserves,. The video is courtesy of the GWT.



It was a fine spring day to visit the wood, with a chorus of birdsong as a backdrop and large bumble bees visiting the flowers. The woodland hinted at its ancient credentials with coppice stools of small leaved lime and emerging foliage of other flora indicative of ancient woodland. Probably at least a week early for the peak of daffodil flowering, but nonetheless a good day for a spring walk. One day the weather will align to produce a dawn that would do justice to the atmosphere of a daffodil wood, until then it is a matter of waiting patiently.

A daffodil wood.

Lord of the Flies

I was researching the impact of landscape photography on the environment and a google search result was a blog post from a workshop/tuition provider and also the founder of the Scottish Landscape Photographer of the Year competition, Stuart Low. It certainly didn't read like one of those sanctimonious marketing fluff articles written for the landscape photography media. It made for dispiriting viewing of the videos documenting the poached ground and vandalism to trees, that can only be due to photographers. What made for uncomfortable reading was the candid report on the dysfunctional behaviour and culpability of some famous, brand name and copycat landscape photographers. An extract from the blog post :

'We witnessed one tour leader who arrived late at the location and bullied his way to the front where he ordered his group to set up in front of everyone else. Others threw stones in the still water and others simply stuck their cameras in front of someone’s lens to take hand-held shots.  

Matters aren’t helped by “brand name” photographers taking large groups to the area either. They typically pack in 12-15 photographers per workshop, charge ridiculously high fees and go to the same tourist locations as everyone else. And to put things in to perspective, one famous landscape photographer presented to 50 photographers in the Ballachuillish hotel only last week. This greed fuels copycat tours.  

The brand photographers obviously can’t be blamed for copycat workshops, but they can be blamed for what they teach – because it fuels the behaviour of others. For example, the same famous photographer above held a lecture in Edinburgh last week where he gave some appalling advice to his audience. He told them it was bad form to rearrange pebbles on a beach yet he described at length how he cut through a canopy of trees to capture a shot. Is it any wonder other photographers copy this type of vandalism?  

Indeed, some “famous” landscape photographers believe they are above everyone else and hold rank in the landscape. For example, one particular hypocrite individual claims there are too many photographers in the landscape yet he runs workshops with 15 students. This same individual wrote that the blowing down of the dead tree on Rannoch Moor was “fortunate for landscape photography” – yet the same tree adorns the front cover of his book! It’s egotistical attitudes like this that feed into the psyche of others.'

A new google search to see how widespread this dysfunctional behaviour is amongst supposed professionals, resulted in a blog from a female landscape photography workshop/tuition provider, that charts some allegedly reprehensible professional behaviour. It is only one side of the story, even so it  really doesn't reflect well on the Yorkshire professional landscape photographers implicated. An extract from her post on Professional behaviour in landscape photography :

'I’ve noticed for some time now that the landscape photography workshop arena is getting quite vicious.
The landscape photography workshop business is in the leisure industry, a supposedly happy industry not one that harasses and tries to shut down competitors to such an extent that here I am standing on a cliff, on my birthday after hearing my websites could be shut down ie all my online presence gone
if it wasn’t for my 4 legged friend I wouldn’t be writing this. I am still feeling pretty shitty, still don’t know what to do, this was the proverbial last straw.'

It would be bad enough if the above referenced were the only posts online from landscape photography workshop/tuition providers highlighting their concerns of dysfunctional behaviour from their supposed peers, sadly there are more.

The word professional for some landscape photographers apparently applies only to the capacity to make money, the responsibilities of professional behaviour and standards, appear alien concepts.

An Ancient Woodland Yew

I am fortunate to live in an area where ancient yew trees grow and a visit to a local wood emphasised this point. We had been exploring the woodland, following the boundary, avoiding the plantations and walking the geology, when I recalled the wood has an ancient yew, so a detour made to show Nic. I do not profess to be an expert in ancient yews, however I've viewed yew trees with known planting dates from the 17th and 18th Century and also some of the oldest Yews in the UK. A 300 year old oak or beech tree will turn heads, a 300 year old yew tree rarely merits a glance, by most definitions yew is a slow growing tree. There was a research study of Yews at Alice Holt some years ago that demonstrated the slow growth of woodland yews. The yew we detoured to, is not of the size of churchyards yews, but as a wild yew in a woodland habitat it certainly has an aura of great age.

King Yew and Nic

Nic asked me the history of the yew, sadly I could only recollect some hazy details, it had been possibly a decade since my last visit and a while since I'd rea up on it. I was fairly sure it had a name and some of the ages attributed seemed far too conservative. Viewed from one direction the tree appears of some age, a view from another direction reveals a morphology that hints at a great age. The tree appears to be in a rejuvenating state where new wood is being grown over deadwood, the cause of the deadwood can only be speculated at; disease, trunk collapse, vandalism, storm damage, lightning strike or more probably the capacity of a senescent yew to rejuvenate itself.

King Yew - new wood growing over dead.

On returning home I looked up the tree on the Ancient Yew website, the yew is known as the King Yew and now has some history ascribed to it; a possible boundary tree in an Anglo Saxon charter of land granted in 956 AD by King Eadwig to Bath Abbey. Which suggests that the Yew tree in the 10th Century was of a suitable stature to be assigned as charter landscape feature.

Scowles

Recent trips have been local and partly spent investigating the potential of some scowles sites for sunrise and sunset light, though assessing where low angled light falls and what it illuminates within a woodland is an exercise in optimism. The scowles land features are possibly unique to the Forest of Dean and Lower Wye Valley and generally associated with the outcrop of carboniferous crease limestone. The geology is haematite mineralisation in fractures and solution cavities, the surface expression is anthropogenic, from the open cast mining of haematite. Normally the prospect of photographing mineral workings isn't one to set my pulse racing, the scowles are the exception. The simple reason is that the mineral working activity happened a long time ago, archaeologists aren't sure exactly when, though there is historical evidence that points to Roman age workings. Some believe the scowles are older than Roman.

Scowles woodland

Most of the remaining interesting scowles landscape have been naturally regenerated by woodland and this woodlands by most definition satisfies the criteria for ancient woodland - Beech, Ash, Hazel, Yew, Holly, Oak, Lime, Wych Elm, Gean, Wild service and Whitebeams. Outsize ancient coppice stools are not uncommon and Yews have a character that suggests trees of some age.  The ground flora over limestone and dolomite is calcicole and again indicative of ancient woodland. The high rainfall in recent years appears to have encouraged Ramsons and a carpet of Ransoms is worth making an effort to photograph, especially when it picks out the undulations of mineral workings.

Scowles woodland 

The picturesque aesthetic of scowles were appreciated by early 19th century tourists and this trend has continued to the present day, the latest Star Wars movie utilised the Puzzlewood scowles as a filming location for that otherworldly je ne ce quois. Away from the relatively manicured environs of Puzzlewood, scowles environments are more visually complex. The vibrant greens of foliage, extremes of contrast and colour gamut and colour, make for some interesting exposure decisions.

Scowles ~ Yew roots and geology

Recent trips haven't really produced any images of notes, documentary records of the scowles mostly, the rewards might come later in spring if the wind drops.

The Forest of Dean oaks

A remnant of the Dean's 19th C oak plantations

The quality of oak grown and outsize timber supplied from the Dean was a constant theme in historic woodland literature, Evelyn in his discourse on trees in 1662, mentioned its renown and the Royal Navy made extensive use of its timber. In 2015 the Forestry Commission published a research report Shake in oak : an evidence review that sheds some light on why the Forest of Dean had a reputation for the production of high grade naval timber. Woodland soil and lithology can influence the potential for timber shake. The tables below are observations made during the extensive felling of oak during World War II.

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCRP024.pdf/$file/FCRP024.pdf

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCRP024.pdf/$file/FCRP024.pdf

The Forest of Dean geology is Carboniferous Coal Measures, with underlying limestones and Devonian sandstone, siltstone and mudstone. The structure is a raised synclinal basin and all the aforementioned geology outcrops in the Dean, exposure of the coal measures form a significant exposure.The superficial deposits comprise head, colluvium and fluvial. The Dean is noted for its cold microclimate and prevalence for severe frost.

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCIN077.pdf/$FILE/FCIN077.pdf

Forestry Commission provenance trials of native and european oaks also highlighted another quality of the Dean; its capacity to grow timber slowly. Slow growth equates to a closer grain and a harder more durable timber, a desirable quality in a naval timber.

In 1852 and 1853, 100's of acres of oaks in Russells and Churchill enclosures, planted in the late 17th century were felled in the Dean, the size and fine quality of the timber again noted and supplied to the Royal Navy. Yet less than a century later the Dean had a reputation for poor quality oak timber :

One of the most notorious regions in Britain for shaken oak is the Forest of Dean, the cause being attributed frequently to drainage and disturbance from mining activities. However, the areas of mining activity do not always correspond to the areas of shaken oak and it is more likely that the shallowness of the soils which Day and Peace (1947) cited as the cause of low vigour, poor growth, and susceptibility to pathogens in the Dean oak, is a contributory factor

In 1904, the renowned forestry expert Sir William Schlich, had this to say about those very same oak plantations in the Forest of Dean :

Some wiseacre have of late been writing about 'The New Forestry'. Alas! it seems to me what is really wanted is to return to 'The Old Forestry', and to eliminate as quickly as possible the errors introduced into British Forestry by the nineteenth century forest experts. These gentlemen were in too much of a hurry. 'Quick returns regardless of consequences' was their maxim, and now they have almost ruined national property of an enormous value, inasmuch as they have considerably reduced the fertility,or yield capacity of the soil. 

The research report also states that there are other factors that can predispose an oak tree to shake susceptibility and a number of trigger factors.

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCRP024.pdf/$file/FCRP024.pdf

The following is a timeline of events in the Dean through the 19th Century and is mainly drawn from the historian Dr Cyril Hart books: The Forest of Dean, New History 1550-1818 (1995) and Royal Forest: A History of Dean's Woods as Producers of Timber (1966) and the writings of the superintendent of the oak plantations 1810-1818. When compared with the events for acquired disposition of oaks to shake susceptibility and triggers effects it might explain the poor reputation of Deans 19th C oak plantations.

1802 Lord Nelson visited the Dean and wrote the following memorandum :

The Forest of Dean contains about 23,000 acres of the finest Land in the Kingdom, which I am informed, if in high cultivation of Oak, would produce about 9200 loads of timber fit for building Ships of the Line every year; that is, the Forest would grow in full vigour 920,000 trees. 

The State of the Forest at this moment is deplorable, for if my information is true there is not 3500 Load of Timber in the whole forest fit for building and now coming forward. It is useless, I admit, to state the causes of such a want of Timber where so much could be produced, except that by knowing the faults we may be better enabled to amend ourselves. 

First, the generality of trees for these last fifty years have been allowed to stand too long. They are passed by instead of removed and thus occupy a space, which ought to have been replanted with young trees. 

Secondly, that were good timber felled, nothing is planted and nothing can grow self sown for the Deer (of which now only a few remain) bark all the young trees. Vast droves of Hogs are allowed to go into the Woods in the Autumn, and if any fortunate acorn escapes their Search and takes root, then the Flocks of sheep are allowed to go into the Forest and they bite off the tender shoot. These are sufficient reasons why Timber does not grow in the Forest Of Dean. 

Of the Waste of Timber in former times I can say nothing but of late years it has been, I am told, shameful. Trees cut down in Swampy places, as the carriage is done by contract, are left to rot and are cut up by people in the Neighbourhood. Another abuse is the Contractors, as they can carry more measurement, are allowed to cut the trees to their advantage of carriage by which means the invaluable Crooked timber is lost for the Service of the Navy. These are also another cause of the failure of timber: a set of people called the forest-free miners, who consider themselves as having the right to dig for Coal in any part they please. These people in many places enclose pieces of ground, which is daily increased by the inattention, to call it by no worse name, of the Surveyors, Verderers etc.. who have the charge of the Forest. 

Of Late Years some apparently Vigorous measures were taken for preserving and encouraging the growth of Timber in the King’s Forest and part of the Forest Of Dean has been enclosed, but it is so ill attended and that it is little if anything better than the other part. There is another abuse which I omitted to mention – Trees which die of themselves and are considered as of no value. A gentleman told me that in shooting on foot, for on Horseback it cannot be seen hid by the fern which grows to a great height, the Trees of 50 years growth fit for building, fencing etc is cut just above the ground entirely through the Bark in two years. The trees dies and it becomes either a perquisite or is allowed to be taken away by favoured people. 

These shameful abuses are probably known to those high in power but I have gathered the information of these from people of all descriptions and perfectly disinterested in telling me or knowing that I had any View in a transient enquiry. But knowing the abuses it is for serious consideration of every lover of his Country how they can either be done away or at least lessened – perhaps a very difficult or impossible task. 

If the Forest of Dean is to be preserved as a useful Forest for the Country, strong means must be pursued. 1st: the Guardian of the support of our Navy must be an Intelligent and Honest Man who will give up his time to his Employment. Therefore he must live in the Forest and have a House, small farm and an adequate Salary. I omitted to mention that the expense of the Surveyor of the Woods, as far as relates to this Forest, to be done away; Verderer as at present, also the Guardian to have proper Verderers under him who understand the planting, thinning and management of Timber trees. These places should be so comfortable that the fear of being turned out should be a great Object of terror and of course an inducement for them to exert themselves in their different stations. 

The first thing necessary in the Forest of Dean is to plant some acres of acorns and I saw plenty of Clear fields with Cattle grazing in my Voyage down the Wye. In two years these will be fit for transplanting. NB: I am aware that Objections have been made to the transplanting of Oak. I am not knowing enough in this matter to say how far this is true when so young as 2 to 5 or 6 years. The next thing is to be careful to thin the trees for more timber is lost by being too fearful of cutting down than by boldly thinning. A Tree from 10 years of age ought by a scale given to me by a very able man, to be as follows viz: Number of Trees that such land as the Forests of Dean may contain at different periods from their first being set.

 

In forty years these forests will produce a great Value of timber fit for many uses in the Navy indeed except for Ships of the Line.

If on due consideration it is found not to be practicable for Government to arrange a plan for growing their Own Timber, then I would recommend at once selling the Forests and encourage the Growth of Oak Timber. I calculate that taking away the 3500 Load of timber at present fit for cutting (or be it more or less) than the Forest of Dean will sell for £460,000. I am sensible that what I have thrown together upon paper is so loose that no plan can be drawn from it, but if these facts which I have learnt from my late tour may be in the least instrumental in benefiting our Country I shall be truly happy. 

After thoughts on encouraging the growth of Oak Timber drawn from my conversations with many gentlemen in my late tour: 1st: the reason why Timber has of late years been so much reduced has been uniformly told me that from the pressure of the times gentlemen who had £1000 to five worth of timber on their estates, although only half grown (say 50 years of age), were obliged to sell it to raise temporary Sums (say to pay off Legacy). The Owner cannot, however sorry he may feel to see the beauty of his place destroyed and what would treble the value to his Children annihilated, help himself. It has struck me forcibly that if Government could form a plan to purchase of such a Gentlemen the growing Oak that it would be a national benefit and a great and pleasing accommodation to such growers of Oak as wish to sell. My knowledge of this subject drawn from the conversation of gentlemen in the oak Countries I think would almost obviate all difficulties. Of my self I own my incompetence to draw up a plan fit for public inspection, but all my gathered knowledge shall be most cheerfully at the service of some able man.”

1803 A new youthful Deputy Surveyor of the Dean, succeeded his father. In the events that unfolded it is doubtful this appointment would have satisfied Lord Nelson's request for an Intelligent and Honest Man who will give up his time to his Employment.

1808 The Dean Forest Act was passed by Parliament. An Act for the Increase and Preservation of Timber in Dean Forests. Or the statutory enclosure at any one time of 11,000 acres of the Dean and the enclosure only opened when grazing herbivores could cause no damage to the trees within. The Surveyor General of Woods after apparently giving much thought to the issue, decided to adopt modern forestry techniques and the plan was to enclose oak plantations grown from acorns.

1809 The contract was awarded for enclosing and planting the 11,000 acres. Planting commences.

1810  It is not recorded how many knowledgeable foresters declined the opportunity of superintending the afforestation of Britain's premiere oak forest with plantations raised from acorns. The General Surveyor of the Woods, employed a nurseryman, with an interest in trees, from Lincolnshire to superintend the work.

1810-1812 The initial years were spent feeding the resident populations of mice, voles, Jays, Wood pigeons and rooks, premium grade acorns. The seedlings that did grow soon died. The acorn planting approach was eventually declared a failure. The plan of raising a forest of oak from acorns in plantations had started to unravel.

1814 A new General Surveyor of the Woods is appointed.

1812-1816 A new plan was implemented whereby oak saplings would be planted instead. The resident mice population ring barked and killed the saplings. At some expense the resident mice population was reduced to a level that posed no threat to the saplings. Many saplings were devastated by frost.
Transplanting older saplings was also tried and eventually a formative pruning technique developed on larger oaks for transplanting. There is no record of provenance for acorns or saplings planted in the Dean in the successive attempts at planting the 11,000 acres.
The Deputy Surveyor of the Dean amused himself along with the local sporting gentry by hunting hares, rabbits and deer, on horseback in the enclosures causing much damage to the saplings apparently. The General Surveyor of the Woods authorised that all deer to be 'banished' from the enclosures.
Exotic conifers were also used as nurse trees to the plantation oaks and appeared to grow rather well in comparison.

By 1816 9,289 acres enclosed and planted. Expenditure on the plantations to date £59,172.5s.10d about £6.6s.8d per acre.

1817 Perhaps all too aware of the prospects for the oak plantations achieving Naval grade timber quality, thousands of acres of privately owned, traditionally managed oak woodland adjacent to the Forest of Dean were purchased.

1818 At great expense to the Crown the contract for enclosing and planting the Dean was completed. Much silviculture remained to be done; failures not attributable to the contractors had to be made good. The superintendent in charge was reassigned to planting a 900 acre wood in County Durham. The Deputy Surveyor of the Dean took over the management of the oak plantations.

1819 The severity of frost killed many saplings.

1821 In a commissioner's report to fill in gaps in the enclosure 2,985,000 saplings were needed.

1823 it was reported that many oaks were again defoliated by Oak Leaf Roller Moth caterpillars.

1825 The superintendent in charge of the planting the plantations published a book on his practical experiences in the planting of oaks and acorns in the Dean. The book generated some controversy amongst middle aged foresters and over the next 5 years a pissing contest developed as quill was put to parchment.

1830  The superintendent in charge of the planting the Dean 1810-1818 interjected into the ongoing acrimonious discussion amongst titled gentry on the best approach for growing oak trees for Naval Timber, by recalling that when consulting with the locals, that Sessile oak were the trees in the Dean that produced the best timber. The Dean had been planted with English and Sessile oak saplings. This was almost heresy as it appears the English oak (Q. robur) (Anglo Saxon) had long been advocated as the preeminent timber tree, the Sessile oak (Q. petraea) that grew in the highland areas in the west and north of Britain (Celtic) as inferior stuff. The ante was ratcheted to a new level, with reputations and national pride at stake. The two oaks hybridise quite freely, which added another layer of complexity and fuel to already heated debates.

1831 Thinning of the plantations. The commoners rioted, threw open the enclosures and let their animals in to graze. The riot act was read, armed militia called for, arrests made and deportations made to Tasmania. The enclosures were made good again.

1841 Some enclosures opened to grazing herbivores.

1852 Commissioners survey report on the plantations were at best damning with faint praise, there was particular criticism that some plantations were over thinned, others mis-managed.

1862 The Battle of Hampton Roads was a fortuitous event as the Royal Navy had no further need for premium grade timber and the intense scrutiny of the oak plantations eased.

In 1893 the Commissioners of the Woods employed a barrister as Deputy Surveyor for the Forest of Dean and with no exposure to modern forestry, the barrister quickly grasped the principles of silviculture, put a stop to the thinning of the oak plantations and underplanted the oak with beech. Interplanting of 2 beech tree which each oak had been the traditional practice in the Dean.

In 1899 there was a particularly good oak mast fall of acorns in the Blakeney Hill Wood North and this area was enclosed and Old Forestry practices employed. The trees selected for harvesting in winter 2013/2014 appeared of good timber quality to a layman's eyes.

Traditionally grown 110 year old oak, Blakeneyhill Wood North, Forest of Dean

The timber demand of WW1 and WW2, meant a large coverage of the early 19th C oak plantations could finally be felled and Modern Forestry could move on from the debacle. Plantations of Douglas Fir, Norway Spruce, Corsican Pine, Larch and other exotic species have prevailed since in the Dean. That is until the early 21st century as the exotic tree plantations in the Dean have or are currently being felled as biosecurity measures due to outbreaks of Phytophthora ramorum and Dothistroma Needle Blight. Diseases that are ravaging great swathes of the UK's commercial forestry plantations, with millions of trees already felled and more to come.

The good news is that the two species of native oaks are resistant to the diseases currently infecting the exotic commercial trees and judging by the research reports and planting guidance into native oaks there is a prospect that native oak will again become an important commercial tree once more in the Dean. Probably Sessile oak (Q. petraea) as the English oak is more susceptible to acute oak decline.