2017 Predictions

In December 2016 I made 3 predictions: A film's influence on landscape photography, an uncontroversial WPP awards and handheld photography. Here's how they turned out.

1. Although I enjoyed the Revenant story and scenery, the natural lighting employed wasn't quite what I had anticipated. From memory, the natural lighting seemed to be mostly courtesy of leaden skies. A compromise perhaps, for where scenes needed to be reshot or continuity of lighting was important. On the other hand, the film won plenty of accolades for directing and cinematography, so perhaps diffuse lighting was integral to the mise-en-scène? Despite the accolades, I do not believe the Revenant has had or will have any effect on landscape photographers abandoning composited skies etc. Time will tell if other film directors also choose natural lighting for their films too.

2. The WPP awards passed without notable controversy, radical proof that enforcing competition rules before announcing the winners, does actually work.

3. My prediction on handheld photography, I have no idea and no inclination to investigate further. I simply lost the will to monitor the landscape photography scene : It is far too insipid, hypocritical, narcissistic and wearing on the spirit.

Overall, really poor. Nonetheless, I'll try again and make another 3 wildly uninformed predictions.

1. Harsh Light, the new black

Business savvy landscape photography workshop providers, know there is an untapped market of wannabe landscape photographers to exploit, who are simply too feckless to make the effort needed for dawn and dusk excursions. Marketing abhors a vacuum, so the golden hours will be the new landscape photography workshop mantra : Mid day summer photography! Lighting added afterwards courtesy of digital software. The golden hours will be nothing to do with the quality of light, the feckless do not care about light quality in the field, only an end result that satisfies their delusion. The golden hours will refer to the filthy lucre made from exploiting individuals at their convenience. The photography media would champion this cause with relish, to fill out anaemic content and widen their dwindling audience. As a bonus, it will generate controversy too, as this time of day has traditionally been the preserve of middle aged males, typically Black and White landscape photographers, a demographic, vociferous in defending their artistic creative comfort zone. A google search of photography forums should easily confirm whether this has come to pass.

2. Post-truth landscape photography

The Brexit referendum and Trump election, have elevated making wildly inaccurate untruths as acceptable practice. I therefore predict a significant rise of untruthful statements* in the wider landscape photography community and a significant increase in the number of images, that will be underpinned by heroic challenges overcome, outpouring of pseudo emotive gibberish and spiritual epiphanies. Expect a backlash from some celebrity landscape photographers who will be threatened by this unwanted competition.

*A minor caveat though : post-truth has been prevalent in fine art landscape photography since its inception and widely deployed by some gear reviewers, with affiliate links for sales commission.

3. Landscape photography media

2017 will mark yet another year, when there is an absence of any commercial media not pandering to the lowest common denominator of landscape photographers  

3. Auteur theory

Finally a frankly ludicrous prediction and one I have so little faith in  a prediction for a positive development in landscape photography, where auteur theory is elucidated. This would encourage the not-so-confident landscape photographer to move away from the soulless bucket lists of iconic views and venture forth into the landscape, to apply their vision and knowledge of the landscape, weather and light quality, in creating images that underpin a narrative of their curiosity.

Autumn woodland - Forest of Dean and Wye Valley

With the 1st day of winter, this post is a retrospective of the autumn 2016 woodland photography, where I made a conscious decision to concentrate on the woodland of the Lower Wye Valley. Specifically the woodland growing on the steeper slopes of the upper gorge. The Lower Wye Valley is the habitat for some rare and uncommon trees. The challenge is : locating them, identifying them, finding photogenic specimens and lighting. Some species of Whitebeam are endemic to this area, the global population concentrated on crags along a few kilometres of the river Wye.

Whitebeam leaves and berries

Photographing Whitebeams, was an ignominious failure, identifying the species relied on determining subtle nuances in the morphology of the leaves and berries, I lost the will on that one. Whitebeans current habitat appears predominantly restricted to crags and their shrubby nature, proved too challenging for my idealised vision. I need to regroup and try another approach for the future.

Wild service leaves and berries

Wild Service trees, also proved equally challenging with photogenic specimens elusive.

Wild service bark

Ambitions for images of expansive views of the wooded river valley once again fell short and what I consider good lighting was used to illuminate the autumnal colour of the beech woodland on the slopes.

A wood amongst boulders of quartz conglomerate was also visited.  Harvesting operations a few years back, resulted in canopy gaps and deadwood on the ground, brambles that overran the woodland floor are being shaded out as the canopy once again closes over and saplings create an understorey.

A Scowles woodland, where I had high hopes for an image with a backdrop of autumnal beech trees never happened, the timing of my visit coincided with beech leaves having already fallen or were still green. The trip emphasised another indicator of ancient woodland, the heterogeneous rollout of autumnal colouration and leaf fall, amongst 'wild' tree populations.

The oak/beech woodland in the Dean, provided an image showing the intimate relationship between underplanted beech and oak timber trees.

A number of images were made for a couple of long term projects on decay in woodlands.

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 Only one trip coincided with autumnal mist.

And that was it until next year.

Isle of Skye - round up

The best weather day of the holiday was set aside for a trip down Glen Sligachan, Nic didn't fancy a hillwalk and the low elevation of Glen Sligachan enhances the prominence of the surrounding hills. Besides there was an opportunity for an image with early sunlight on the floor of the glen as the sun cleared the tops of the Red Hills to the south east.

It was an enjoyable walk, a stretch of the River Sligachan was explored, but the best of the early light had passed and with the Black Cuillin in close proximity, a wide angle, tilt shift lens would have been useful to preserve the true perspective.

The excursion turned into a something of a social, as a local professional landscape photographer, was met on the way and we chatted amongst other things about the current situation on Skye, which has grown to be a prime bucket list destination for landscape photographers and the photography workshop industry. Shortly after we stopped and chatted to two contractors heading down to carry out path maintenance on the slopes of Druim Hain, for the John Muir Trust. One was carrying a Hasselblad film camera and documenting the work and landscapes, with 'quality lighting' as part of a long term project, I'll look forward to viewing that body of work one day. Given the forecast of heavy showers for the afternoon, a decision was made to take advantage of the weather and change the plan, to view the Cuillins from further away.  We retraced our steps back up Glen Sligachan, as the showers started to roll in.  We then travelled to Strathaird, for southerly views of the Cuillin and Nic, could spot for marine wildlife in Loch Scavaig from elevated position.

The Camasunary track was taken, prolonged showers meant it was heads down walking and the opportunity to appreciate the geology exposures - sedimentary rocks, dykes and basalt. Nic, didn't fancy the walk to Beinn Leacach, she could scan the sea and coast for marine life adequately from Am Mam. A break in the cloud to the SW let some light through for a double rainbow. That brief window of light was the only one of the trip.

With dusk approaching and the hill fog lifting from the Cuillin, the opportunity was taken to make an image of the juxtaposition between glacially scoured rock and the periglacial landform of the Cuillin ridge.

There's something compelling about about the Black Cuillin in some weather, wreathed in hill fog and rain. I have yet to make the photograph that captures that brooding atmosphere, but the climate of Skye at least gives plenty of opportunities for practice.

The trip to Skye was an enjoyable one, a mix of weather, geology, landscapes, scenery and wildlife and a few areas/locations identified to explore in the future.

Isle of Skye - Geology

The Isle of Skye has a long geological history, illustrated by a Geology Excursion Guide that has 21 detailed itineraries, the majority are of 8 - 10 hours in duration. Located on the Atlantic coast of Scotland there is the prospect of some changeable weather, which means there is the opportunity for making a landscape photograph with a narrative of the geology and/or geomorphology.

View from the western slopes of Marsco  ~ 2013

One particular geological feature has played on my mind, since my last visit to Skye, in late November 2013.  I had followed an excursion in a geology guide book, down Glen Sligachan and ended up in Harker's Gully on Marsco, that has exposures of intrusive rocks in a composite ring dyke. In lieu of typing verbatim the geology guide description, there is a description of the ring dyke and its context within the western Red Hills (volcanic) centre on the BGS Earthwise blog or Geological Conservation Review. The ring fracture was differentially weathered into a gully and a distinctly verdant flora compared to that growing over the thinner soils on the adjacent granite bedrock. That geology excursion was compromised by the distraction of the views over Glen Sligachan to the Black Cuillins, glacial geomorphology and the course of the River Sligachan, that in places delineates the boundary of the gabbro and granite intrusions.

Screen shot taken from http://mapapps.bgs.ac.uk/geologyofbritain/home.html to illustrate Marsco hybrids of the western Red Hills Centre

For those curious about Britain's bedrock, the British Geological Survey has an excellent Geology viewer application to investigate the landscape. Below is a satellite image taken in late winter of Marsco, judging by the snow lying on the Black Cuillin, shadows and the drab brown foliage. Clearly visible are stripes and patches of green foliage.

Screen shot taken from http://mapapps.bgs.ac.uk/geologyofbritain/home.html to illustrate Marsco hybrids of the western Red Hills Centre

 Clicking on a green strip reveals the underlying geology as mapped by field geologists, which is the Marsco Hybrids.

Changing the geology transparency layer reveals the underlying geology and the green foliage correlates with the outcrop of the Marsco Hybrids.

On the visit to Skye in late October 2016 and in the itinerary under 'iffy weather' there were a list of geology excursions and two in particular explored the nature of the ring dyke further. First up was an impromptu geology excursion to the John Muir Trusts, Sconser estate, that proved interesting, but probably best visited after some drier weather, with lower water flows to make crossings easier and when the Sligachan 'peatlands' are less saturated. The plateau basalts, Glaimaig granite and the composite ring dyke of Marsco Hybrids are revealed in the stream exposures of bedrock and also on the north spur of Druim na Ruiage the Marsco Hybrids are revealed by verdant green flora against the autumnal russet flora of the sedges and grasses. Sadly by the time I had got to grips with the geology exposures, the weather had really deteriorated and dusk arrived. Nevertheless, I was impressed with the potential of the area and the backdrop of the Red Cuillins.

After arriving on Skye, Nic booked a kayaking trip on the day before we departed Skye and at the time the plan was to drop me off somewhere and then pick me up somewhere else at at dusk. The weather forecast deteriorated, with a weather front spreading in from the north around midday and so the plan changed, to me dropping off Nic and picking her up from the kayaking offices, giving me a window between 09.00 - 16.00 hrs. The leading edge of a weather front can deliver some atmospheric weather, so I decided on a walk up into Coire nam Bruardaran,  which was also covered by a geology excursion I could cherry pick from and if the opportunity arose, wander up a hill summit if the weather held. After dropping Nic off in Lower Breaknish, I parked up at Loch Ainort and the weather was pretty good, a few wisps of hill fog over Glaimaig, but the higher summit of Gharb-bheinn clear. A beeline was made for Gharbh-bheinn, the geology could wait until the descent. An hour later and the summit of Gharb-bheinn was 'clagging' up, sigh. I was passed by two local hillwalkers, who in view of the dire weather forecast, were heading up Gharbh-bheinn for a shorter hill day in preference to the Black Cuillin. In view of the hill fog I decided to concentrate on the geology and views from Druin Eadar Da Choire and Point 489.

Topographic expressions of weathering and erosion.

Where the ring dyke crosses the ridge of Druin Eadar Da Choire, its presence is revealed by a gully, the ground vegetation is less convincing, although the signature of the verdant flora corresponding with the Marsco Hybrids is readily apparent on the eastern flank. The view across Coire na Seilg, juxtaposes the weathering and erosion profiles of differing lithologies : granite of Glas-Bheinn Mhor and assorted intrusive/extrusive basic rocks of Belig.

Onwards to point 489, which for a modest elevation has extensive views. Any lingering hopes I had of taking in more elevated views were dispelled by incoming cloud and orographic fog. I should add that the western summits of the Black Cuillin appeared to be largely free of cloud/fog, whilst the lower tops of the Red Hills were afflicted by cloud/fog. A 'wee blether' with the two hillwalkers on their return journey, revealed that they did get a brief view from Gharb-bheinn's summit.

I did chance upon a Hard fern nestled in an outcrop of granite accompanied by some Fir clubmoss.

The western slopes of point 489 had extensive granite block fields against a backdrop of Marsco and the Black Cuillin. I did keep an eye out for any glacial erratics, but didn't notice anything, which suggests the block fields are autochthonous and generated under periglacial conditions, some areas of the slopes had distinct banded pattern of vegetation and block stripes, landforms indicative of periglacial mass movement.


The dark basic rocks of Garbh-bheinn, provided a contrasting backdrop to the granite block slope. The name given to this area is the Red Hills, I somehow arrived in an area where the geology comprised either dark basic rock or granites that were blue/green/gray when fresh and gray/brown when weathered. The weather as forecast deteriorated and I made my way back to the car, not a bad excursion and an area to return to again one day. I'll cover other excursions on the Isle of Skye in the next post.

Isle of Skye - Woodland and Wildlife

After the week in Kinloch Rannoch, the following week was destined for the Isle of Skye. Nic, had a holiday bucket list of tour operators and guides, for kayaking, boat trips and wildlife watching ... Which was fine with me, as she could drop me off somewhere, whilst she went kayaking/boat tripping/wildlife watching. As always the plans were weather dependent.

After arriving at the holiday cottage, unloading and unpacking, there was enough time for an excursion. The weather was negligible wind, very low cloud, rain and a calm sea, that pointed to a wildlife excursion, which in turn threw up a candidate location in the Kyleakin Hills, that held the promise of otter spotting and coincidentally with nearby oak woodland designated as a Special Area of Conservation.

After parking up, there then followed some less than optimal map reading on my part, eventually Nic located a suitable vantage point for a wildlife watching vigil and was immediately rewarded, with an otter feeding on the shore. One pair of binoculars and two people, is never a satisfactory combination, so I went for a recce of the woods and on my return, was informed in hushed tones, that there were now two otters and clearly visible with the naked eye. A good start to the holiday, a few days of cloud and rain meant  this area was visited on further occasions and we were rewarded with more extended viewings of the two otters and also a large pod of dolphins.

 

The woodland contained older krummholz oak trees shaped by the wind and also a few wind thrown, uprooted oaks, still alive and adapting their canopy growth from their trunks horizontal orientation. It was also apparent that the woodland was regenerating, with seedlings and saplings of all the indigenous tree species present. The small downside was that the woodland grew over Torridonian sandstone, I have longed formed an opinion that Torridonian landscapes are some of more arduous to traverse and the woodland was no exception to that rule.



With the sea in close proximity, a high annual rainfall, the climate is decidedly Oceanic and the woodland appears an optimal habitat for communities of mosses, liverworts and lichens. The woodland certainly possessed an atmosphere, enhanced by autumnal colour in the canopy and field layer, rain wetted surfaces added vibrancy to the colours.



Heavy rainfall also posed problems with one excursion and streams in full spate, on a trip out to the Rubha an Dunain peninsula. The excursion was abandoned, when a safe fording point of an otherwise innocuous stream could not be found, without a tedious detour upstream and a look at the OS map indicated there was the prospect of fording a number of larger streams draining greater catchment areas. Every cloud has a silver lining though, on the return journey back to the car park, we watched a pair of white tailed eagles quartering the peninsula, before disappearing from view up into Cuillin Corries in Glen Brittle.

Heavy rainfall did ensure that waterfalls were impressive and the Black Cuillin had a certain atmospheric feel to them.

I'll cover some landscape photography and geology excursions, made in more clement weather, in the next post.

Upland birchwoods

A recent trip to the Scottish Highlands, staying at Kinloch Rannoch and upon arrival it was apparent the autumnal colour palette of deciduous trees, meant plans needed to be revised, to take advantage of the photographic opportunity presented. The appeal of photographing upland birchwoods, increased after a frustrating trip up Ben Lawers, that achieved nothing more than the following a 'munro baggers trench' and some very infrequent breaks in a persistent band of cloud that blanketed the summits and obscured the views. Disappointing, as I venture into the hills for the views, not to tick off a hill list. The small consolation of the Ben Lawers ascent, was a brief, but impressive Brocken spectre.

I decided that my photographic ambitions be revised from summit views, to finding an autumnal upland birchwood, with hills in the background under an atmospheric sky and given the iffy Mountain Weather Forecasts, of high winds and low percentages of clear summits, it seemed a wiser choice.

Ordnance Survey maps were appraised for deciduous woodland, then cross referenced with online historic 1:10,560 OS maps and then satellite imagery, to eliminate newly planted or regenrated woodland. A comparison of modern OS maps and the 19thC OS maps, also lends credence to woodland historians assertions that some upland birchwoods are mobile in the Highland landscape. It soon became apparent that there were a number of locations to choose from and in absence of a strict definition, I decided that anything above the 300m contour line would be a reasonable basis to define an upland birchwood, ecologists would rightly beg to differ, but it seemed a reasonable cut off point for my needs. Locations were then assessed for : geology interest, interference of views from municipal infrastructure, expansive views etc and a list of potential sites arrived at to visit, weather permitting.

The weather duly obliged with sunshine and showers.

Of the upland birchwoods visited, some had been enclosed with deer fences to allow natural regeneration to take place, whilst others were left open and I can only assume that deer were being controlled, as there were signs of woodland regeneration with saplings growing. Where there were no deer fences or apparent controls on grazing pressure, the woodland showed no signs of regeneration. In all the upland birchwoods visited, Bracken was conspicuous by its presence in the field layer and adjacent landscape, prompting some ecologists to speculate that these were formerly Oak woods.

A ravine chanced upon, revealed the potential for the wider Highlands landscape, if the grazing regime changed. The mixed woodland consisted of: Aspen, Rowan, Hazel, Willow and Birch, that contributed to an excellent autumnal colour palette

The decision to lower ambitions from summits to lower elevations proved a good decision and some less visited parts of Perthshire were explored.

The Black Wood of Rannoch - October 2016

I had briefly visited the Black Wood of Rannoch, back in May and decided then, that it warranted a return visit(s). Events conspired to present an opportunity to further explore the woodland, during a weeks stay in Kinloch Rannoch, in late October with the potential for autumnal colour.

Surprisingly for a woodland, there is plenty of literature on the Black Wood of Rannoch and the surrounding area. Through documents, surveys and maps, woodland historians have pieced together a history of the wood, identifying major timber felling events and periods of regeneration. Archaeologists have recorded iron working sites, charcoal platforms, lime kilns, saw pits, saw mills and occupation sites, to provide an indication of the level of natural resource exploitation. Scientists have published papers and reports on numerous aspects of the ecology and species that inhabit the woodland. Judging by the number of old painted stakes, marker posts denoting transect lines and new orange spray painted stakes, the Black Wood is an area of ongoing scientific research and monitoring activities.

Granny Pines and regeneration, in the Black Wood

Geology, Glaciation, Climate and Soils

The geology underlying the Black Wood is predominantly Dalradian metasedimentary rocks, though away from streams, bedrock exposures are limited.  The area has been repeatedly inundated by glacial ice during the Quatenary, the last time during the Loch Lomond stadial. The littoral of Loch Rannoch provides evidence for the origin of glacial debris, as amongst the metasedimentary rocks of local origin, are pale speckled granite rocks that originate from the Moor of Rannoch granite pluton to the west of Loch Rannoch. Analysis of glacial landforms has allowed Geomorphologist to hypothesise that an Ice Cap ~1 Km thick, formed over Rannoch Moor during the Loch Lomond stadial, with outlet glaciers spreading out across the landscape. The study of glacial landforms has led some to hypothesise that there were areas of cold and warm based Ice and that the cold based Ice may have preserved relict landforms from previous episodes of glaciation.  When the climate ameliorated, the Loch Lomond stadial glaciers retreated and the Ice Cap down wasted, leaving behind an extensive assemblage of glacial till, morainic debris and glaciofluvial deposits, mantling the land.

Stream exposure of inclined bedrock and riparian woodland

The metamorphic bedrock underlying the woodland is relatively impermeable and rainfall drains through the superficial deposits and soil layers. The Loch Rannoch area receives a mean annual rainfall of ~1.5 metres and higher amounts over adjacent elevated ground. Away from forestry tracks and wandering along animal track ways that contour the slopes, there are a surprising number of spring lines and flushes encountered.

Flush mosses 

The nature and topography of the woodland floor has generated a range of soils: mainly podzols, gleys and peats. The diverse nature of the ground topography and soils has created a mosaic of micro-habitats within the Black Wood of Rannoch, exploited by flora to produce vegetation communities in ground and field layers of: mosses, rushes, sedges, grasses, herbs, shrubs and bracken.

Woodland history

The general consensus amongst woodland historians is that once upon a time the Black Wood extended further west, east and south. The combination of over grazing and unsustainable tree felling, reduced the wood to a core area, with Gaelic place names, Old maps, remnant Scots Pines, hinting at the former extent of the wood. Matters could be far worse, if it wasn't for enlightened individuals in times past, initiating programs of woodland regeneration, but on the whole it has been a case of gradual decline. From 1947 the Black Wood, has been managed by the Forestry Commission and what exists today reflects the good and not so good aspects of the Forestry Commissions management of the woodland, that they in turn took ownership of. Conservation areas, regeneration and expansion of the Caledonian Forest are the good aspects and Management plans are in place to underpin a number of objectives and ambitions.

Scots Pines and Birch

The not so good aspects of the FC's management are being revisited, non native trees removed and native trees of local provenance planted. A significant area of the Black Wood has also been designated as a Special Area of Conservation and Site of Special Scientific Interest, legally protected and specific management plans cover these areas.


Granny Pines

Granny Pine and Birch

The Granny Pines define the special nature of the Caledonian Forest, their size and morphology, adding presence and a visual indicator of a woods age. The Granny Pines in the Black Wood have been dated by dendrochronology to the late 17th C. To my eyes, some of the Granny Pines have a form akin to pollarded Oaks, with large spreading crowns and as with Oak woodlands there is also Wood Sorrel growing beneath then amongst the needle litter. The survival of Granny Pines has been attributed to their unsuitability for timber.

Woodland floor under a Granny Pine

Hummocks

Anyone wandering 'off piste' in native Pinewoods will encounter 'hummocks' and the Black Wood of Rannoch is no exception, with 'Hummocks' covered in bilberry and heather, sometimes with a Scots Pine or Birch tree growing on them. Some hummocks are of a substantial size, others are in an embryonic state, with a blaeberry/moss cushion colonising a pine stump.

Hummock forming on pine stump

As far as I could tell, the majority of 'hummocks' in the Black Wood, do not appear to be erratic boulders blanketed in vegetation and instead are most likely formed from relict pine tree stumps, although a case could be made for wood ants nests also making a contribution. Conventional wisdom suggests the formation of a 'hummock' takes some time and they are a feature of Caledonian Pine woods with a long history of continuous woodland cover.

Hummocks

Bones of the Forest and windthrow

Foresters indoctrinated in 'modern' forestry at the old Forest schools, would no doubt be aghast at the scruffy nature of the Black Wood, there are a visible number of snags and fallen deadwood in the conservation areas within the Black Wood. The snags and windblow are a positive development for biodiversity and the organisms who are dependent on deadwood for habitat. Standing deadwood is a particularly important resource as the decay rate is slower than fallen material on the ground. The slower decay rate in standing deadwood is exploited by different organisms, to those that breakdown fallen wood on the ground, which in turn means increased biodiversity.

The deciduous woodland

A feature of the Black Wood is the prevalence of Birch, Rowan and Willow trees, that add diversity and a welcome splash of autumnal colour. Whilst Birch dominate some woodland areas, it seems that the Rowan trees are good indicators of the grazing level, in one enclosure where deer have been excluded for some while, it is now dominated by Rowan, in stark contrast to the numbers of Rowan trees in the wider woodland. Having typed that there are numbers of Rowan seedlings on the ground under trees where birds have roosted and this might indicate a further reduction in grazing animals/pressure. With very little imagination, it is easy to extrapolate how Highlands woods and the wider landscape might appear with a reduction in grazing of herbivores, to conservation levels.

During the visits, significant numbers of Fieldfares were seen feeding on Rowan berries and blaeberries, plants that rely on avian dispersal and the reason why Rowan saplings, Blaeberry and Cowberry. can be seen growing as epiphytes on Granny Pines.

Fungi

I had anticipated some native Pine woodland specialists and was not disappointed.

Scaly Tooth fungus (Sarcodon squamosus)

Gypsy mushroom (Cortinarius caperatus) and Ostrich-plume Feather-moss (Ptilium crista-castrensis)

Fly agaric (Amanita muscaria)

Unidentified solitary Amanita fungus and Five-ranked Bog-moss (Sphagnum quinquefarium)

I thoroughly enjoyed my visits to the Black Wood of Rannoch, although only exploring a small fraction of its extent, there was still plenty of subject matter to photograph, much to ponder and the unique atmosphere of a native Pinewood in autumn to savour. Definitely a place to return to again.